3DPrinting

15238 readers
131 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]

There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
1
8
submitted 50 minutes ago* (last edited 31 minutes ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

Hi everyone, I'm once again asking for your help lol Since I’ve tried to print with wood I totally wrecked my printer so I changed the hot end and am trying to set it all up again. Since my printer already came built and working I don’t have much experience with things like this so if you could help me I would be very thankful

What do I need to twerk to make it print better again?

I’m using Cura slicer and trying to print a benchy with the settings below:

Nozzle: 0.4

Layer: 0.2

Printing temp: 220 (it wont print with lower temp)

Speed: 60

Retraction distance: 7

Retraction speed: 70

Edit: PLA

2
3
 
 

Was having clogging issues so I thought I'd replace and get the mythically good capricorn tubes. This is a good sign that I needed to.

4
 
 

I need to print a discontinued part for my car, I have an .stl file for the part, I just don't have a 3D printer. It's a speaker mount.

What online print service have you used that you can recommend? Thank you!

Edit: located in the US.

5
 
 

I've been considering getting refills to reduce my plastic consumption, which means I would have to print master spools with PLA or PETG.

Because I don't consume my filament quickly enough, I got the Sunlu S2 filament dryer, which heats up the filament to 50-60C.

My question is: would it be OK to put a master spool in the dryer, or could it potentially deform?

6
36
submitted 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

I'm printing with PLA on a "PEO" print bed (really a textured PEI), on my heavily modified ender 3, and there's a pattern on the bottom of my first layer that I'm trying to get rid of. The top of the first layer looks fine, and changing the z offset in either direction doesn't help. I've also tried slowing down the print speed because I thought the extruder might be skipping, but I'm still seeing it at 10mm/s. Any idea what could be causing it, and how to get rid of it?

Pic: https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/31cd6cef-16de-47b3-995f-197f7d0b432d.jpeg

Edit: the first layer went down from the bottom left to the top right, but the pattern I'm seeing is perpendicular to the extruder path

7
8
 
 

If a 0.4mm nozzle is 4x the area of a 0.2mm nozzle, should I print 4x faster with a 0.2mm nozzle?

Context - I think I'm having heat creep and printing too slow. (ender 3, pla 210c)

9
10
 
 

I foudn this program https://www.thearmoredgarage.com/ and just wondering if anyone has any experience with it and if it's worth buying or not?

11
 
 

Copying this from reddit. I am not OP.

Hello All! If you are planning on coming to 3DPrintopia in Bel Air, MD on September 28th and 29th this year, please consider printing, signing, and bringing along a blue tile for the "Layer Connections" Community Art Project. Spearheaded by stlDenise3D and 3DPrintBunny, the project has already collected roses at the Midwest RepRap Festival (MRRF) and the Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival (RMRRF). It'll be making a final stop at the Sanjay Memorial RepRap Festival (SMRRF) at the end of the year.

More details on the project and links to the STL files can be found here. The main stipulation is your tile be a shade of blue. Come 3D Print with us! A Community 3D Printed Art Project ⋆ stlDenise3D https://stldenise3d.com/come-3d-print-with-us-community-3d-printed-art-project/

Source https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1f5wk6p/layer_connections_community_art_project/

12
13
66
Wood Temp Tower (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

This is the temp tower of my wood print experiment Cand even se much difference. It goes from 260 to 190. Below 225 gets really flimsy and above 240 melts. But even 230, the "best" one is really bad, and I'm not talking about retraction. Even the layers that melt are inconsistent.

Also it's not humidity since the filament was in a filament dryer for.16hours.

edit: The nozzle is 0.8

can someone think of anything else?

14
 
 

I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer to keep track of how hot the back of my Expedition gets. I drive pretty regularly with two dogs in the back, and over the summer and winter the temps can get a little extreme.

I need to be able to take it out to keep an eye on it remotely (it has about 1/4 mile range) but also have it not rolling around while I drive.

There was a coin holder there that I popped out, and used as a template for an insert to keep this mounted semi-permanently.

Printed with kinda crappy Amazon Basics PETG. If it holds up well, I'll reprint it with better quality black PETG so it matches the car better.

15
 
 

I was experimenting with bottom patterns in Orca and octagon spiral looked cool. I tried it with RGB filament and it came out amazing!

There is a depth to it and it changes with the angle

I haven't seen this before online so figured I'd share!

16
 
 

I want to mount a printed part to a standard 2mm motor axis which doesn't have any dents or profile. Its just round. If I print at exactly 2mm, it fits for the first few times until it gets too lose and the spinning part sometimes falls off.

17
 
 

Is there software that will automatically cut large STLs based on the printer you have or is cutting something you just have to do manually?

18
19
 
 

TL;DR No.

What you should do:

  • buy fresh IPA. It is approx. $5/L. As such a 2L washing bin is approx. $10 + 10L waste disposal. In the broader picture of total costs and production value, this is manageable (resin cost, machine depreciation, PPE/gloves, ...)!
  • use two or three stages of washing
  • fill the washing containers with as little as necessary to get it done
  • periodically expose the liquid to sunlight and let the particles settle down. Separate the "clean" liquid from the sump (you might add special chemicals to speed up this process).
  • if the first stage needs replacement: 1.) responsible disposal of the liquid in compliance with local regulation 2.) move the liquids around: (the third stage is the new fresh liquid, the second is the prior third stage and the second washing station is now the first "dirty" stage).
  • check for alternative chemicals that can be used with your particular resin

If you use water-washable resin: IT IS A DANGEROUS LIQUID! Dispose of dirty water responsibly as chemical waste.

Long answer:

To answer that, let's first look at what isopropanol (IPA) is: Its formal name is propan-2-ol and its CAS number is 67-63-0.

As a starting point, check a database like GESTIS (German) and NOT wikipedia: https://gestis.dguv.de/data?name=011190

At the top of the page we see that it has GHS-02 and GHS-07 warning labels. Looking further, it is a colourless liquid with a flash point of 12°C and an ignition point of 425°C. The explosive range is 2-13.4% vol. The signal word is DANGER.

Scrolling down:

The substance forms explosive peroxides.

What does this mean?

There is no mechanism mentioned, but generally, if you expose these chemicals to sunlight they will react over time to form a peroxide, which is much more reactive and can explode at high concentrations (there are exceptions to this rule, but most of them go boom).

This means for distillation:

  • avoid "old" IPA if possible
  • check for peroxides (if necessary, treat the peroxides before distillation)
  • don't distill dry (leave some liquid in the sump to avoid high concentrations of peroxides)

As I believe this shouldn't be done at home I won't tell you how it can be safely done (if this isn't enough to deter you: read scientific literature/books describing how it shall be done).

Instead, focus further on what advice is out there on the internet/YouTube:

  • A water distiller is made for water and water isn't flammable and doesn't form explosive atmospheres. In other words they are unsafe for Isopropanol or Ethanol.
  • Do you think a 2kg fire extinguisher is enough? Are you truly capable of thinking rationally when there is a fire or would you panic like most people?
  • Don't even consider doing it indoors or in a garage.
  • Don't work with large volumes. In a laboratory with proper fumehoods and equipment, there might be limits like 500mL batch sizes.
  • If somebody isn't wearing eye protection or heating large amounts of liquid without stirring question his qualification to talk about this topic. Being an influencer or posting online, like this post, doesn't require any formal qualification as such even the big YouTubers/influencers post horrendous content that is dangerous or misleading.
20
 
 

Has anyone here changed the Biqu B1 SKR v1.4 mainboard to SKR MINI E3 V3?

21
116
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 
 

So I set this text to change the bottom layer to concentric only for the text and I got this. I had this large flat area in my print and decided to spice it up a bit for fun without doing multicolor which would be 1, too annoying to do manually and 2, too visible for this part that needs to be all black. So here I have a nice DON’T PANIC on the back of it.

22
 
 

Edit: Deleting this post. It's starting to get controversial, but that's OK. Not what I planned on, but whatevers.

23
 
 

I'd like to get a Bambu Labs A1 with the AMS but I'll want a sturdy surface to put it on. I'm shopping around for tables with drawers and I'd like to know how big it needs to be. There are dimensions for the printer itself but it's hard to know how much more space I need to accommodate the AMS.

24
 
 

I am looking to get a new 3d printer. I've had an ender 3 V2 for a few years. While I've been able to get many excellent prints out of it, I'm looking for a printer for my new apartment that will require a little less tinkering and troubleshooting. I'm pretty experienced with the nuances of 3d printing, and don't mind taking things apart and fixing things(but not every time I wanna use the thing). Realistically I'll be printing mostly PLA and PETG, but it would be nice to have the option of trying out other higher strength filaments, and I'd like to have an enclosure to play with ABS eventually.

I prefer to spend around $500. I've been eying up the Bambu P1S with the AMS but I really don't think I can afford almost $1000 right now. If it's really worth it, I can pull it off. The Bambu a1 is also interesting, but id prefer to have a core-xy with an enclosure.

I've been looking at the flashforge 5m or 5m pro, as well as creality k1c. Those prices are way more attractive. Or perhaps qidi?

All the choices and different technologies on the market now are a little bit overwhelming, and I don't want to be disappointed in my purchase. I'll mostly be using it to print random things for around the house and for electronics projects.

Any thoughts or recommendations are welcome, thank you!

25
view more: next ›