3DPrinting

Posted on makerworld, printables, thingivese.

"Cloth" on Molotov cocktail is made from a bread tie. Otherwise you will also need glue, jump rings , earring hooks and an eyelet screw. You could probably use a bit of wire instead of the eyelet screw if you have that instead.

Prints fast and easy.

Free and commercial free too. https://makerworld.com/models/1392048

https://www.printables.com/model/1288324-civil-disobedience-earring-or-keychain-set

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7031109

These are symbols. I'm not advocating for vandalism.

Honestly I got the idea from games I play that have bricks and Molotovs.

Im not promoting their use. They are symbols of feelings that many of us are having right now. Just like the guillotine.

But we aren't going around building guillotines. At present, Ive not seen any riots in the U.S nor use of either of these except on Nazi cars on dealership lots.

All were obviously 3D printed. Layer lines were very clean. Even saw a kid walking around with one in hand hugging his parents to buy it for him.

A collection of cup holders that slide between your couch cushions. Free to download https://makerworld.com/en/models/1318086-cup-holders-for-sofa-cushions#profileId-1353638

Would you rather upgrade (2) Anycubic Vyper (new hotend, extruder, etc) or buy a new printer?

tl;dr: my cat was getting lazy, and was developing health issues, so i wanted to make something to trick him into exercising more. I did this by attaching a treat dispenser to a cat wheel, and giving him treats when hes ran certain distances.

This was my entry for the printables smart pet gadget contest. https://www.printables.com/model/1278945-smart-cat-treat-dispenser-for-one-fast-cat-wheel

There were a few back-to-back all nighters right at the end in order to get this submitted in time (managed to submit 7 minutes before the deadline!) - so the code is all kind of lumped in one file. Ill clean the code up in the upcoming weeks, but the short bullet point list of features are:

• Almost entirely 3D printed (other than a motor, 4 bearings, some sensors, and the nuts and bolts
• Detects that the treat level is low before completely running out! no more sad cats that hear the food dispenser going off, only to be left with an empty belly!
• Self hosted wifi configuration page (connect to the AP, go to 192.168.4.1, enter your wifi settings, and it will join your wifi network
• Completely self hosted web UI / API - configure all your settings, vend treats remotely from other smart devices, and track your cats stats!
• MQTT support - connect your treat dispenser to a platform like homeassistant to see graphs of your cats activity and be alerted to when the treat dispenser is almost out of treats.
• simple electronics (no analog components other than resistors for some LED's)
• cool design features like internal wire channels so theres minimal exposed wiring (other than power, and a single connector to connect a hall effect sensor to the treat dispenser for detecting cat wheel rotation)

I believe this was caused by the horrendous layer adhesion of this silk PLA. Didn't have time to tune the filament, and based it off of another silk one.

Recently started trying Silk PLA filaments for the first time. This was printed with Eryonone Silk Rainbow PLA. The glossy sheen seems to come out well, but there is this odd banding/striping as the hue changes sometimes.

I've printed with several Eryone matte filaments and I haven't seen this. Could this be a defect with the filament, or do my settings for silk still need some work?

Hi!

I've daydreamed about getting a cutter plotter without actually planning on really getting one. Too expensive and shelfspace-consuming for something that I'm not going to actually use that often.

Then I remembered that I could "just" mount a dragknife on my Ender-3 pro to do the job (maybe get one of these fancy quick-toolhead-changing systems as an excuse to tinker with CANbus, or something ;).

After a bit of online search, I found that I'm hardly not the first one with that idea. I've found a few videos, posts on reddit and files on thingiverse/printables, but nothing too in-depth. So I wanted to ask y'all if you know any resources to check out on this. Some github-pages style homepage of someone would be ideal, but I'm not too hopeful that there's something out there if I haven't found it yet.

Things I think I've found out:

• Roland Cutting Plotter Vinyl Cutters are apparently the way to go. With 45° for vinyl.
• I can use gcodetools to create gcode from svgs. The exact details aren't clear to me, though. Probably gonna have to create a klipper macro for this.
• I can simply attach a cutter to my toolhead, or use something like the BTT hermit crab for a more fancy approach

Things I'm still not sure how to do:

• If I'm using a BL-Touch - how should I handle z-homing? Can Klipper use BL-Touch for z-homing with an endstop-failsafe? Should I just monitor the print by hand?
• Is there a comprehensive guide on the materials?

Do you have any experience on that topic?

Left: I opened a sealed roll of a filament purchased in 2018 and I printed that rose

Right: I dried that filament in the creality dryer overnight and sent the print again

This pic was taken on 10th April. After drying the filament I put it back in storage and I forgot about it until it exploded today

I tried printing something on my bambu instead of my voron since I cant get the voron working properly. Why do the outer walls do this?

I've never been able to get a clean first layer with this machine. I have given it a beacon probe and it just made it much faster to get the same problem to happen again. Where am I going wrong?

Makerworld link

Comparing HyperFFF and "traditional" G-Code for Raise3D machines I noticed that the only difference seems to be the M99123 command at the beginning of the file (identical for different STL-models):

M99123 /RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD/RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6M/RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6M/RKIIyAfrgVn63QgWjcMv3w/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0IpD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0IpD0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ip0Ipw/VGrHawCYdCJaNwKoDQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw/DQafsD84EnC8915R6MD0Ipw

Any clue how this G-code command works and what is written there?

The CFS upgrade kit is showing in stock on the Canadian store site.