3DPrinting

Just a simple and (in my opinion) sleek phone stand. Link for anyone interested: printables.com/model/1251408-simple-static-phone-stand

I'm trying to print this part out of Filament-PM TPE32 on a Prusa Mk4 with a textured sheet and I'm not having much luck.

The part is a bellows with a 100%-infill plate at the top and at the bottom. Despite leaving a giant brim inside and out, the whole thing has minimal adhesion to the bed and invariably comes off when the print reaches the top-heavy section of the part.

It's maybe the 10th print I'm attempting, slowly trying to dial in the parameters. I had to crank up the bed temperature to 47 degrees for the first layer to achieve any kind of adhesion, which is odd. I have other TPU/TPE filaments that stick better (but they're too hard for my purpose).

I could achieve slightly better adhesion by cranking up the nozzle temperature above 235C, but then it start stringing so bad it leaves raised obstacles almost immediately on the first layer while building the brim, and then the head slams into the obstacles and dislodges the brim at the second layer. The only way to get a good brim (and a good part) is to lower the nozzle temperature to 223C.

Clearly the problem is that the Prusa Mk4 is a bed slinger: it shakes the part loose. We have a Prusa XL on the way that should take care of the problem, but it's coming in 3 weeks and I need the part now.

Before I slather the bed sheet generously with glue, any advise to make this print succeed on the little Mk4 without making a gooey mess with the glue?

Here's the PrusaSlicer project file if you're interested.

A while ago I bought a roll of transparent petg "the filament" by spectrum. Wonderful, it printed great, shiny, smooth. I loved it.

Then I took advantage of the promotion on the Bambu lab website "4 rolls are discounted + free shipping" and I bought their transparent petg.

I opened the vacuum bag, loaded immediately in the printer and it strings and pops. Settings are correct as the slicer has a dedicated profile for this roll.

Their website says "warning: dry before using" - they mean that it comes already too moist from the factory?

I finally wrote up my process for creating a 3D printed Alice in Wonderland shadowbox.

I used the Disney Classics #8 book cover as the art to work from. It's all 3D printed except for the laser cut acrylic sheets.

This post is a follow up to this post here Quality issues where I was having tolerance problems with lead me to discover inconsistent extrusion in base mode.

It has been quite a ride and I used a lot of the suggestions given in the last thread, and also discovered several other problems which lead to a major rebuild/redesign of the corexy x and y axis, bed motion, and extruder. Here is what I found:

The first thing I noticed were the shafts in the x/y stepper motors appears to be bent just slightly. If I watched the pulley on the motor it appeared to wobble. I replaced both motors with some spares I had laying around from various projects. The x and y gantries both move on linear rails, and I ended up totally reprinting the carriage adapters as well.

Second, I had 4 points leveling on the bed, which I know is quite controversial. I found that the z screw coupler in one corner has become stretched out and wasn't really adjusting height correctly when I ran my 4 point script. I modified the bed so two steppers are connected in series and moved the pivot point between the 2 old pivot points. The bed moves on 4 linear rails and 4 smooth rods with z-screws between the rod and the rail. I got rid of the spring type couplers and replaced them with solid couplers. Any wobble in the screw is taken up by wobble nuts.

Third, and probably most important, I realized the zesty nimble 2 extruder was suffering plastic fatigue. If your not familiar, the zesty nimble is 85%-90% sintered nylon. There is one hobbed gear and a "breech" that holds the filament against the gear. The breech clips onto ears on the main body of the nimble. One of the ears, over time, has gotten a bit weak and the breach only consistently clips into one side causing less pressure to be put on the filament against the extension mechanism. I could have inverted the mount, reprinted it, and flipped the nimble as you can use it either left handed or right handed, and bought some time, but zestytech has gone out of business, so I decided it was time for a change. I picked up a shiny new orbiter 2.5, and printed a new hot end carriage, a hero me, and totally rebuild the print head.

I spent a couple of hours updating and doing basic tuning on the config and am much happier with the results. I still need some more tuning, need to work on wire management, and come up with a better wire support instead of the old number direct drive cable. I may eventually reuse the number as a second print head extruder but that is a ways off.

Here are some of my first prints from the new setup.

I still need a bunch more tuning: extruder stepper vref tuning, retraction, print temperature, feedrate, etc, but I feel like I am finally getting somewhere.

The Ghillie Spotter without mask. I think it came out good.

Hopefully this will give a more "easy to paint" approach without needing to finesse anything else to the end user, and end up having an "acceptable" compromise.

However that's something I will end up seeing with the model once it's released and I get feedback from miniature painters and those who are gonna play with it!

@3dprinting #resin #wargaming #miniature #blender #art #wip #artistic #tabletop #printing #cult3d #myminifactory

Hi All,

I recently got back on the 3d printing scene after about a decade (Time flies!), the other day I was inspecting a failed print for a spool holder and noticed the Z axis striations seemed to follow some kind of oscillating pattern for the most part.

This made me think of the early day flight recording units and I thought if we were able to quantify these oscillations and compare them to the gcode we could derive what types of movement are causing these issues and hopefully troubleshoot them (perhaps even beyond our naked eyes capabilities)

So I drew up this back of an envelope concept and since I'm relatively inexperienced with 3D printing, I wanted to post it here and see what the communities thoughts are on it.

If it seems like a worthwhile endeavour I would be happy to invest my time in making it a reality and could hopefully publish this work (under FOSS of course) to help benefit everyones prints.

Bambu A1 mini still operates on 1.04 firmware which does not include authorization "security feature". Naturally, I want to avoid it.

I know I can meddle with router somehow, even if it does not have parental controls or other very clear option to leave it inside local network.

However I would prefer preventing update in some other way, if there is any. This little printer is quite portable and I sometimes bring it to other locations. Also, remote printing and monitoring are nice features, which would be a pity to lose.

What would you suggest, or maybe have done yourselves?

I have another one if neccessary, but I think the screw shafts on it are clogged with plastic, so it might take some work as well.

I’ve been noticing an unsettling trend in the 3D printing world: more and more printer manufacturers are locking down their devices with proprietary firmware, cloud-based software, and other anti-consumer restrictions. Despite this, they still receive glowing reviews, even from tech-savvy communities.

Back in the day, 3D printing was all about open-source hardware, modding, and user control. Now, it feels like we’re heading towards the same path as smartphones and other consumer tech—walled gardens, forced online accounts, and limited third-party compatibility. Some companies even prevent users from using alternative slicers or modifying firmware without jumping through hoops.

My question is: Has 3D printing gone too mainstream? Are newer users simply unaware (or uninterested) in the dangers of locked-down ecosystems? Have we lost the awareness of FOSS (Free and Open-Source Software) and user freedom that once defined this space?

I’d love to hear thoughts from the community. Do you think this is just a phase, or are we stuck on this trajectory? What can we do to push back against enshitification before it’s too late?

(Transparency Note: I wrote this text myself, but since English is not my first language, I used LLM to refine some formulations. The core content and ideas are entirely my own.)

So I got a ~~floppy~~ flippy drive for my GameCube and I wanna have the SD card accessible.

But instead of hacking off the original I thought it would be fun to design my own.

So far I got it to fit well enough. However some dimensions needs adjustments before I start final prints.

I need to print some improved tubing connectors, 3 different types - 80 Pcs total, for a pair of crappy shelving units my Wife bought off of Walmart. The originals were as minimal material as possible without missing the nylon tree completely.

The Klipperized Mk3s with a .60mm nozzle is nearly as fast as the mini with a .40mm nozzle. Once again proving it's not how fast you say you can go, but how fast the parts let you go..........

Hello 3d printer fans and makers. I currently have an a1 mini and have been putting it through its paces over the last several months. Ive probably used 5kg of filament and have maybe a few hundred hours of prints on it. I love the little machine, its a work horse. But it cannot print most engineering materials and Im looking to branch into more exotic prints and get myself a bigger build volume.

My first thought was getting the a1 with ams for multifilament printing and then I would have an ams I could use with either printer, but upon ruminating on the subject multifilament printing this way really seems to be such a gimmick and if I really want to do it there's always stop code and manual filament switching. Plus its another bed slinger with the only real change being the larger build volume.

So that brings me to the Qidi Q1 Pro. All the reviews really talk it up, I like that its built on klipper and an open ecosystem (-1 for Bambu), the hotend max temp, the heated champer, the larger build plate, and the price? All seems like a big win to me.

My current plan is buying the printer along with a filament dryer, I dont really want to get their drybox attachment, a smooth build plate, some CF something filament, and 0.6mm nozzle as accessories.

Do you all have any thoughts on polydryer, if the 3 x-plus might be something to consider if I really want a bigger build plate than what the Q1 pro offers, or if there might be another printer for me to consider in the $500-700 range. Also, any recommendations on filaments I might want to try with a heated chamber, 100C build plate, and 350C capable hot end? Im leaning towards something nylon and/or carbon fiber... maybe PA-CF? lol.

Anyways, any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Im working with an old reprap cotroled directly with an Laptop with cura. Filament is RS-Pro (2325395) Pla though. Open around 4 weeks ago but i have this problem in some capacity since i have this Filament. Before i had some really old pla which snapped all the time because it wss so brittle. Is this really just shitty Filament? Help/ Insight would be much appreciated.

Edit: solved. Disabling the retraction worked (as a temporary fix). The Spring of my extruder is too strong so my extruder was eating my filament especially in high retraction areas. The results with my old and hard filament were better because it was so hard the extruder didn't eat it. Picture is in the comments. Thanks everyone for your help.

Even with all the Controversy that rightfully surrounds them, I still think that this could be well worth Discussing given thier Track Record.

While it is likely just Marketing Jumbo, the Whole "Rethink Personal Manufacturing" stuff does make me think that this double extrusion stuff is more than just 2 Lossless Filament changers. What do you folks think? What will be the Killer Feature of the H2D?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.bestiver.se/post/277564

Comments

Hi there, I recently started looking into multicolor 3d printers, and found the Anycubic Kobra 3. I am not interested in the Bambu Lab printers, never have been honestly I just didn't like the closed source nature of their products.

I have seen tons of mixed reviews on the printer, and am just wondering what y'all think. Keep in mind, my current printer is an Ender 3 V3 SE. Also, it seems to go on sale frequently, so I will be grabbing the Kobra at $350, not the $500 "MSRP"

Thanks in advance

I've had an interest in 3d printing for a while and had a few models on my wishlist, but long story short a mutual friend wanted an upgrade, and I was the first one to accept their model that they no longer needed. I cannot ask them for help. I'll probably try to ask them what specifically they changed about the printer, but I can't know that they'll take the time to respond to me.

I'd like to know where to start with this. I got what seems like an entire 3d printer in addition to a box with a bunch of parts and stuff in it. I'm wondering if I should disassemble the printer and put it back together to get an idea of what I'm dealing with? Or if I should just be grateful it's together and try and use it. It'd also be helpful if someone could help me identify which parts are not stock and what I should expect while using those parts.

Thank you,

Semi

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The Model is on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6979927

and Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1230465-gamecube-flippydrive-bracket-plus-space-for-micro

The original bracket didn't have the clearance I needed for my MicroSD Card extender so I modeled a new one based on the 3D Printed part I got with my FlippyDrive.

Currently remaking the GameCube IO Panel as well. Hoping when I am done I can add a clean spot for the Micro SD Card.