That looks like a really shitty screw to begin with.
this post was submitted on 29 May 2025
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Actually looks like an anti removal screw. The inner edges of the plus are sloped, but only in the direction to unscrew.
I hate Phillips screws. For this very reason.
You just need the right size screwdriver
You're right that phillips screws are prone to cam out if theres a size mismatch, but it doesn't stop there. Apply too much torque or have a misshapen screw head or bit and you're out of luck.
Get a JIS screwdriver. Life changing.
“Failed to load media”
Bummer. Mobile using the Voyager app, if anyone else has the same issue.
Same, but mine loaded fine. Android.
Use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver and bits. If you own a Japanese automobile, motorcycle, etc., you better use them.
Phillips is identified, in muricuh, by just the cross pattern hole.
JIS is a cross patterned hole, with a separate round indentation in one of the cross corners.
They are very close to each other, but not exact, and can round eachother out.
I have yet to strip any Phillips head screws with my Vessel bits.
Congratulations.
Your ribbon is in the mail.
I know what you mean. I have a few older Hondas and there is jis everywhere. I'm talking jis on the dash, jis on the cluster, jis on the sunvisor, seat track, sunroof... Jis on the gotdamnt headliner. The things are practically covered in jis.
It took all the way till the last sentence before I got the joke.
I was hoping it would be dry laugh creeper.
Lol mission accomplished
Visit the Vessel (Made in Japan) website. I know how you feel, I have a Nissan Leaf.
JIS is definitely a step up from Phillips, as long as you have the right bits and can tell them apart. I run into JIS a lot in bicycle maintenance. But neither of them hold a candle to metric hex. It's really hard to strip a hex bit until you're being a total idiot.
I've done it. It was a grub screw - so the hex was entirely within the shaft - that was surrounded by loctite, and frankly I never had a chance to get it out. It went circular immediately, just with hand pressure. I ended up having to use a screw extractor.
I was told this was a common problem on ARRMA vehicles and that I should get a more precise type of hex driver. They were expensive but I haven't had the problem since.
OK yeah that sucks. I've run into hex grubs screws before, but on brake levers which I'm pretty sure have to meet compliance stuff like ISO safety standards so the hardware was higher quality.
Also though these are RC size, 5mm screws, so much easier to kill. Apparently the issue is most hex drivers are slightly undersized, and ARRMA like to loctite their axle grub screws to hell.
Canadian look of superiority
You can still mangle a Robbie if you have the wrong size but you do have to work at it.
Also those combo Robertson/Slot screws made with Chineseium can round out pretty quick.
Torx ftw
mood
Where the hell do companies even find these super cheap, shitty screws that strip so easily? When I buy screws at a hardware store, they don't ever get stripped unless I use an impact hammer drill with the wrong size head and the screw is really stuck in something (and it sometimes also just twists and breaks the entire screw at that point). But screws already in a thing I bought almost always get stripped hella easy using a hand tool.
I think it depends on the screw, what it's for. Softer ones can bend without breaking, very important in most cases.
And + sucks, * superiority.
Drywall screws are hard because drywall is hard (as in like sandpaper) and doesn't flex.
PS Skill issue.
I'm no mechanic, so anytime I work with a drill, it's to unscrew someone's pervious work. I just jam the plus shaped head into the plus shaped hole and pray, just as the lord intended.
I bought a precision screwdriver set to replace the failing RAM on my thin lenovo laptop, which has super tiny screw on the ram slot, withing the first few turns of the screwdriver, I stripped that screw. Fucking thing would not budge, tried the rubber band trick, tried to even find somewhere I can borrow a dremel to cut a line on the head for a flat head, finally had to take it to the repair center at a Micro center and they somehow got it out. Never buying a thin laptop again, and will always check online for repair ability
https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
I've had to use this quite a few times on laptop repairs cuz the oem used way too much lock-tite. The trick is to use the point at about a 45 angle toward the outside of the head, impacting in the direction it would turn to loosen. Just be careful it doesn't slip off and cause more damage. The hardened tip can also be used to cut out a wider cut to maybe fit a small flat head in too.
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