xzot746

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

Well that was the problem, thanks for everyone's input.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

So I sliced and printed a different model, and then rotated 1 by 180°, it is somewhat weird as the lowest part on the right model seems ok but as the wall built up on the inside it was getting the artifacts. The model on the left was getting the artifacts on the outer piece but not the inner.

In rotating the models after, the artifacts are on the opposite side.

I noticed it was starting at the seam, I have the scarf joint on contour, and noticed that "scarf around entire wall" was checked so trying reprinting to see if that is the issue.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (3 children)

Good point, I have mainly been printing these items for the hydroponic tower. I do have other versions that I can check. I think after this set prints I will add some basic shapes in different orientations to see if there is issues still.

That being said I did print some other items that were stacked and each one is much thinner but there are no artifacts on the outer walls.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

I re-lubed the rods before starting another set and still having the issue. I was thinking it had something to do with the Bowden tube but even at the back where the tube doesn't move much the issue still happens.

Is there a specific lube that is better than others?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago (5 children)

Thanks for your reply, to your point yes they still fit, been having this issues for a bit now as I'm up to about 40 of these netcups and the associated other pieces for the grow towers.

I think the belts are good, but will double check.

 

I have a K1 Max and mostly it is running great, however I get strange artifacts on mostly only the front side of curved objects.

I have lubed all the rods, and I have a Capricorn PTFE tube from the filament sensor to the hot end. I tried the printable guide for the tube to go into the hot end but it wasn't any better and I thought that was the culprit at first.

I have an extension piece to raise up the top glass.

I'm using Elegoo Rapid PTEG running at 240c and 250mm outerwall speed. This is mainly happening on the front side and anywhere on the build plate. Filament is dry and fed out of the Creality Space dryer.

These items are small netcups but it was also happening on the larger sections that they go in.

Using Orcaslicer and Arachne wall generator.

Any ideas where I need to be focusing my attention on?

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 months ago

Easy there pussies can be useful, unlike that shitheel.

[–] [email protected] 11 points 2 months ago

Funny and sad that the Canadian taxpayers are footing the bill for some friend of a friend to have a luxury condo in NYC. These so called leaders are just milking everyone. What a disgrace.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 months ago (1 children)

I can't speak to multi colour perse, however the creality K2 went on sale today for certain countries and they have a 50% off sale for a limited number of units, they sold out today's stock but will have it again tomorrow then they will drop to 40% then 30%. Might be good if your willing to be a beta tester essentially.

The Prusa units seems to waste less filament.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 6 months ago (1 children)

I'm building a low pro Corne, Kailh browns with ChocFox keycaps, it'll be my travel keyboard.

 

Hey all, working on a Corne Choc, and having issues flashing the right half of the board with QMK Toolbox.

I am getting a validating error with:

822 invalid byte in program region, 0 outside region

This is the second controller as I had the same error on the first and assumed I ruined it when I was troubleshooting it and desoldering.

Ordered a new board and same issue.

I've cleared the EEPROM, there are not shorts or bad solder on the headers. This is a completely separate PCB.

Tried using QMK MSYS to reflash ISP (not sure I got that right, don't really understand it).

Get a blue led indicating power, reset button works to put it into bootloader mode, still nothing will flash on it.

Unfortunately on the first go round I had soldered headers to swap but was too tall for me, desoldered the boards and went directly to the PCB, as mentioned this is a new board on a new PCB, did not program prior to soldering.