DreadPotato

[SOLVED] cause: not enough cooling for overhangs

I increased cooling on overhangs from 60% to 100%, and decreased overhang (10-25%) speed from 100% of outer wall speed to 85%. Issue went away completely and it now prints nicely 👌

I've started printing parts for my voron 2.4, and it's generally going well enough. The parts are looking pretty decent. But I'm having a hard time getting good results with overhanging sharp corners. They tend to warp upwards as seen in the photo on the left side. The prints stick well enough to the build plate and I don't have any other warping or adhesion issues.

Is this because my cooling for overhangs is too much?

I generally print with no part cooling in an enclosure. Temps are 245°C on the nozzle and 105°C on the bed, using 60° fan speed for overhangs. I'm printing on a anycubic kobra 2 with azurefilm ASA.

[SOLVED] Turns out I'm just a bigger moron than I thought. The MAC address of my server had accidentally been flagged in my router for black listing.

As the title says, my proxmox host is apparently not able to reach the internet anymore, not sure for how long this has been an issue, I rarely work on the host itself. It can ping other devices on my network just fine, and other devices can ping it. I can also SSH in to it and access the web interface. My VMs are connected to the internet without any issues. I don't need to access the host remotely/outside my home network, this is just for updating it etc.

I can't see the host under active devices in my router though.

I have been trying to figure why, but so far without any luck.

I have trouble fixing the terrible seams I'm getting. I've followed Elli's print tuning guide and calibrated extruder, tuned PA (it's now 0.035) and extrusion multiplier.

I've tried adjusting both retraction length and speed, but it doesn't seem to have much impact. I'm not using "wipe on retract" or "retract on layer change", I only retract if travel distance is longer than 3mm. Retract is 0.3mm @35mm/s.

I've tried reducing PA smooth time too, but this also doesn't seem to have a noticable impact.

I've tried reducing seam gap from the default 10% in Orca all the way down to 0%, but the bad seams persist.

I've tried with "wipe on loops" both disabled and enabled with no difference.

I've tried with both arachne and classic wall generator, no difference.

I've tried different wall orders, inner/outer, inner/outer/inner and outer/inner, all with the same bad seams.

Filament in the picture is matte PLA, it is without doubt dry and generally prints well aside from the seams. It's stored vacuum sealed with silica, and I use a filament dryer to dry if I suspect wet filament.

I'm running out of ideas for where to tweak to get a decent result.

I've been contemplating switching the rods that my X and Y axis travel on to linear rails instead. The current hardware is double SS rods with SG15 bearings, with an eccentric nut to adjust tension on the rods.

Unfortunately these rods are not evenly spaced on my Y-axis. They're closer together at the back than at the front, deviating with 0.5mm. So the rollers are either too tight at the front, or too loose at the back, meaning the bed wobbles a bit when using the front of the bed, or skips layers due to higher resistance on the rollers when using the back of the bed. I could lower the movement speed, but I would rather fix the actual cause of the issue.

I have some suspicion that the rollers are also not rolling smoothly on the rods and sometimes slip/skip on them instead.

And then I came across the Voron switchwire and Ender3-to-switchwire conversions. Now I'm not really willing to fully rebuild the printer as a switchwire, but changing to linear rails on Y and X axes is not a massive rebuild and considerably cheaper. I would keep the existing threaded rods for the Z-axis.

I would use the hardware I have now (motors, pulleys, belts, bed-mount, belt tensioners) with minor modifications to accommodate the rails instead of the rods currently used.

Are there any caveats to be aware of when using linear rails?

I've been trying to print some things in TPU, using a fairly soft 85A TPU, and I keep having under extrusion.

I've already reduced speeds to max 25mm/s, and reduced retraction. My printer uses a direct drive extruder, and as far as I can tell, it's grabbing the filament just fine. I'm printing at 240°C, using my default 0.4mm volcano CHT brass nozzle.

I'm looking to expand my printer lineup, and have been looking at kits from magic phoenix for both the Voron Trident and the v2.4R2.

Is there any real benefit to one over the other, or is it more a preference thing?

Edit: if anyone know of other kits, preferably available in the EU, I would also like to take a look at those.

I tried printing with PETG yesterday, and I noticed that it intermittently stops moving during the print for a few seconds. It doesn't throw an error or anything, just stops and then after a few seconds resumes as if nothing happened. But this creates huge blobs where it stops. It only happens when printing PETG, not PLA. Could this be caused by a filament setting in my slicer? I'm using prusa slicer. I inspected the gcode and there are no stops, pauses or color changes etc. in it. The behaviour happens both when printing from octoprint and directly from SD card.

Edit: these random intermittent stops are 10-20 seconds long, causing massive blobs from oozing filament.

Edit 2: so it seems to not actually be a PETG specific issue, but rather a model size/speed issue. I can get it running without stops if I just reduce print speed. When I crank speed to 100% I start getting these weird 10-20 second long stops.

So I'm overloading the controller with a lot of gcode commands in rapid succession? I'm running at slightly lower than manufacturer default Max.

SOLVED: the gcode resolution was set too fine, I increased it from 0.0125mm to 0.5mm as described here and the stuttering disappeared.

Why are 3D printers still stuck on stepper motors? Why haven't we transitioned to servo motors with encoder feedback for positioning?

Is it just too cost prohibitive for the consumer-level? We would be able to print a lot faster and more accurately if we had position feedback on the axes. Instead we just rely blindly on the stepper not skipping any steps when we tell it to move, hoping for the best.

How long do you have filament sitting "in the open"? I mostly print with a single filament roll at a time, and just leave it on the printer. A 1kg roll lasts me several weeks. For long time storage I keep it in an air tight box with disiccant pouches.

But how long can I let it sit before I should start storing it with disiccant and/or drying the filament before use?

Når man nu har smidt Lineage OS på sin gamle android telefon (oneplus 9pro), så vil MitID jo ikke rigtig lege med fordi bootloaderen ikke er låst. Findes der et fix så jeg ikke skal have en anden telefon med stock ROM for at bruge det? Hvis jeg låser bootloaderen igen så havner den bare i et bootloop :/

Edit: forslaget fra humanplayer2 virkede, rettede fire tekststrenge i build.prop på telefonen fra "Lineage"/"userdebug" til "Linage"/"user" og voila! så virker mitID.

Recap fra reddit linket nedenunder, så vi har det på feddit.dk også.

Hvis man slår "Rooted debugging" til under Developer Options kan man gøre:

adb root
adb pull /system/build.prop

Redigér filen på computeren, udskift følgende tekststrenge:

"dev-keys"/“test-keys” til “release-keys”
“userdebug” til “user”
“lineage” til f.eks. "linage"

overfør build.prop tilbage til telefonen

adb remount
adb push build.prop /system/build.prop

genstart telefonen

adb reboot

slet cache og data på mitID appen, og så virkede det for mig

I am just getting back my sea legs, but apparently they're pretty shaky because I can't get my ubuntu torrent (no seriously, it is) to download. It never starts downloading and is stuck in "stalled". I've tried a number of things, but even with default settings it isn't starting. I'm using proton VPN on Linux Mint, but even with the VPN disabled it doesn't work.

last time I torrented was probably 15 years ago.

EDIT: i managed to get it working. As expected it was a Qbit config issue. First issue was a port forwarding issue. second one was the interface i connected it to. Apparently the interface named something with "vpn" is not the correct one to bind Qbit to, its a dummy created by the VPN that doesn't work. I had to select one named "tun0". If i just selected the regular physical interface I had IP leaks with the VPN enabled.