KevinFRK

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 0 points 5 days ago (1 children)

Amusing effect, suiting the subject. If you had the patience, some of the yellow on the building to the left presumably ought to be possible to mask out from having any colour.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Nice shot, and interesting to see a Jackdaw with such odd feathers (given they "ought" to be black and a bit of a darker gray around the head). Also, was this taken inside a food court or similar?

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 month ago

Because you presumably post here to share something you think others might like/be informed/be enlightened by and this doesn't appear to be doing that at the moment. However, if not posting for that reason, I suppose I can go hunting for the Block User option.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 month ago (1 children)

While I share the question "Why?" I might hazard a guess that there's almost an echo of the colours of the Sainsbury's sign with the colours of the tarmac and its white and yellow lines, or even of the pale blue car and the sky - I could almost imagine a "I like it but I don't know why" mood.

But then, same poster as "11 miles to the city" two days ago.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 1 month ago

Photos of reflections can do wonderful things, as here!

1
Autumn (lemmy.world)
 

Well, one symptom of it anyway - sunlight on dew on webs. Reading, UK

[–] [email protected] 0 points 5 months ago

Oh yes, and also of only realising in post-propressing that the shot isn't quite as good as you hoped when you did it.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 5 months ago (2 children)

To tell you something you probably already knew, your depth of field is too short in this one, and you needed to increase the aperture or move back, so that you get the full glory of the fluffiness on the right.
Really nice subjects, though!

[–] [email protected] 0 points 6 months ago (1 children)

Interesting to see a technical use of photography posted here.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 6 months ago (1 children)

And good tutorials you'd care to recommend that explain what they are trying to achieve? I just have a self taught process with Canon's DPP4 on RAW format, only working on brightness, as follows:

  1. Turn on any over/under-exposed markers
  2. Move the left slider to the right until it reaches non-zero parts of histogram and/or get under-exposed markers, move back a "bit"
  3. Move the right slider to the left, unless reaches non-zero parts, or get over exposed markers - but go further if its only sky, and you don't care about it
  4. The tricky bit, move the centre slider to the right if the picture seems "washed out" and to the left if there's too much dark in the part of the picture you care about - this is extremely subjective

Doing this, you make greatest use of the range of tones (shades, whatever) that the end JPG can offer, and get the detailed tone changes in the zone that matters... maybe.

Using the general brightness slider achieves similar but distinct effects - you might mix and match

This sort of activity should work in any tool. You might be able to do it for selected areas or colour, but I don't/can't. You might be able to tweak the curve more precisely, but likewise I don't try.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 6 months ago

Those are the tools to play with (might also be called Gamma Adjustment), but I think in this particular case, because of those lovely areas where the sun is shining through, having the rest of the body dark (and the sky bright) works really rather well.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 7 months ago

If you know the focal length, good - I just remember the first time I went well below 50mm!

You know the events and their constraints: I mentioned it because the monopod is just to provide a rest, and not actual support it can be really light and collapse down pretty short. Sort of thing that can dangle from a belt.

And enjoy the party!

[–] [email protected] 0 points 7 months ago (2 children)

Advice you are probably already aware of (as IAMALlama has already given excellent technical advice):

  • Whatever you go for, do an experimental run in comparable conditions beforehand. Preferably two or three, especially if the event is important to you. Learn the lens and its quirks, and what post-processing can save.
  • Have you ever tried a monopod to address handshake? Much less in the way than a tripod, yet almost as good.
  • Focal length dictates the best distance at which to take any scene to "Fill the frame" (and v.short can also get a little disorienting). The resulting Depth of Field, which others have mentioned, also has an impact. Think about the sort of photos you are after, and make sure in particular those 24mm lens meet the requirement.
  • Think about backup kit and accessories (batteries, cards, ...).
  • Make sure you also enjoy the event, not just get photos of it!
 

Canon R6 + RF 600mm F11

Black and white because feels better than a sort of golden yellow, and because I was being unkind about some who post B&W photos so ought to give them their chance too.

 

Canon R6 + RF11 600mm

The clouds really deserved a much wider angle lens, but all I had was my bird photography lens, and a mildly interesting central subject to take a slice of the magnificence as my shot.

Polarising filters or using a tripod and a much slower speed (this was at 1/1000s - slow for birds, far too fast for this) might also have sharpened up the clouds.

 

I just took this grey squirrel photo on the off-chance, and was rather pleased that it came out pretty well. ISO25600 is far from ideal, and it has been got at by Topaz AI (which, when it works, definitely works!).

Canon R6 + RF 600mm lens

Kept dark as it seemed to suit.

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