There's lots of ways to skin this particular cat. My current approach is low powered Synology (j series?) for mass storage, then 1 litre PC's running proxmox for my compute power using their NVME for storage, all backed up to the Synology.
Two good points here OP. Type docker image ls to see all the images you currently have locally - you'll possibly be surprised how many. All the ones tagged <none> are old versions.
If you're already using github, it includes an package repository you could push retagged images to, or for more self-hosty, a local instance of Forgejo would be a good option.
Does any one have any experience of this low cost conical burr grinder? I'm getting sick of my (rather good Timemore C2) hand grinder.
Harold Holt just fucked off one day.
Build anything small into a container on your laptop, push it to DockerHub or the Github package registry then host it on fly.io for free.
I'd love you to check back later with your conclusions.
Guide to Self Hosting LLMs with Ollama.
ollama run llama3.2If it's an M1, you def can and it will work great. With Ollama.
+1 for Forgejo. I started on Gogs, then gathered that there had been some drama with that and Gitea. Forgejo is FOSS, simple to get going, and comfortable to use if you're coming from GitHub. It's actively maintained, and communication with the project is great.
Great question (and we are reaching the outside edge of my knowledge here). Something like 3-5% of carbon in plants is taken up from the soil by plant roots. I don't fully understand the mechanism, but the organic carbon percentage is an important competent in the calculation of how much artificial nitrogen a crop is going to need, so I guess it's probably some biochemical process for making the nitrogen available.
The organic carbon percentage is closely watched by farmers and is something of an indication of soil health. ie if your crop rotation is reducing the OC% over time then you probably need to reconsider it. It's one of the reasons burning crop stubbles is a much rarer practice now.
I asked for some advice here a couple of months ago about transitioning to espresso from Aeropress, and have since done that, and thought my journey my have some lessons for others, or y'all might have some ideas for my remaining issues.
Journey
Instant -> Nespresso pods -> Aeropress -> multiple daily espresso
Machine
After a bit of research, I was quite keen on the Sage/Breville Dual Boiler, but it was well out of my price range. I ended up purchasing "The Infuser" which is like their bean to cup Barista Express without the built in grinder. I had been planning on getting the Bambino, but the Infuser was less money (AUD350 - perhaps this model is being retired) and seemed more like a 'real' espresso machine.
The Infuser is a 54mm portafilter, PID, three way valve machine. The water heats quickly (although not as quickly as the Bambino) although I tend to turn it on and let it sit for a while to let the group head warm through anyway.
It's supposed to have volumetric dosing, but the volume output changes with the grind, so perhaps this is just setting how many pumps of the little piston pump or something. It's not time either. In any case, it does allow you to make repeatable shots once you've dialed in and set it. The setting is very simple to change.
The water tank is plenty big enough for me, and the drip tray might be on the small side - I generally empty it every coffee but you could probably do two.
Accessories
I have a personal failing wherein I buy too many gadgets when I'm excited about a new hobby. I'd originally started with a Rhinowares hand grinder with my Aeropress, but had found a 2021 Timemore C2 on eBay which is nicer to hold, and grinds the same amount of beans with a lot less turns. Perhaps it is visibly more consistent particle size, or perhaps I'm imagining that to justify this purchase.
I'm very happy with the eBay puck screen I purchased. I don't know that it's making the coffee any better, but it's keeping the group head clean enough that I don't bother scrubbing it after each shot, and the pucks I tip out of the portafilter have gone from 6.5 to a 3.5 on the Bristol stool chart.
I also got the cheapest ring that goes over the portafilter I could get for charging the basket, and that plus reducing to around 16gm of beans (I only use the double unpressurised basket) means I don't up with tiny specks of coffee all over the kitchen which was a constant issue when I started.
I also have a $2 eBay needle distribution tool, a couple of swirls with that means that when I bang the portafilter on the bench a twice I have a pretty flat, clump free looking bed of grounds that I've just been tamping with the supplied plastic tamp. I've never used anything different, so this seems fine to me although I wish it was a tiny bit bigger as there's a visible ridge left around the outside after tamping. This is probably a future upgrade.
I bought a couple of 220mlish ceramic cups, which I love the look and experience of. If you popped in to see me, that's what I'd serve you, but for daily use I use Duralex 220ml latte glasses since I'm still getting used to the milk frothing process and it's easier to see how that's gone in a glass.
The Experience
My main concern going to espresso was that it would be more mucking on than the Aeropress and that I'd give up and go back to that. Actually, it's probably a similar amount of carry on - just more bench space. They are both more time consuming than the Nespresso machine, but in my opinion worth it for the better coffee experience.
Dialing in has been a bit of a challenge - I'm chasing 16 in, 32 out in 30 seconds, but the click steps on the Timemore seem too big. For example on the medium roast I'm drinking this week that recipe goes from 22 seconds to 50 seconds with a single click. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong - I don't think so. In any case, I've just been choosing whatever is closest, and altering the dose and tamp pressure tiny bits to try and improve it a little as I work though that lot of beans. This seems fine for milk drinks.
Fussing on frothing the milk seemed like an optional thing to me, and I wasn't sure I was going to bother (with the Aeropress I just microwaved my milk) but that silkiness of the milk coffee when this is done correctly turns out to very worth. My latte art is highly variable, tending to mostly rubbish @[email protected] knows what I'm talking about. I think my frothing is fine, but other people seem to be able to decide when the white blob appears on top, whereas mine randomly appears when it feels like it - often too close to the end of the pour when the cup is full. I'm sure this is to do with distance and speed of the pour and I'm missing something important. Feel free to offer suggestions.
The steam wand on this Breville is quite slow (which is probably a plus for me while I'm learning to steam milk), and makes a horrid squealing noise that no one would want to hear in the morning. I don't know if that's all steam wands in the world, just this model, or just my machine or my technique, but the cure seems to be to lower the jug and make half a second of stupidly large bubbles then put the tip back in.
Stopping steaming when I was burning my hand on the jug (which seems to be the standard advice) produced coffee that wasn't hot enough, so I purchased a milk temperature gauge, and highly recommend this. I've started counting how many seconds after the jug is too hot for my hand before the temperature gauge is just touching the red zone, so I could probably ditch it now.
Conclusions
Basically - no regrets. I'm enjoying lovely coffees that feel like a treat every day. I think a grinder with finer steps might be in my (distant) future, and I'd like to solve my latte art issues, but overall the experience has been a source of joy.
Moved from a Rhinowares to a 2021 Timemore C2, stumbled out to breakfast and used the same clicks without thinking.
The P20iX is a tacticool type 21700 size light. It's very floody - perfect for inside buildings or close range outside where you need a big field of view, and bright enough at 4000 lumens .
The bumps on the front are something super tough for breaking car windows etc - so I guess aimed at first responder types. I quite like the double clicky tail switch. One is a really solid on/off click and the other cycles between light levels.
It has two modes, I use it in the everyday mode where it remembers the light brightness from when you turned it off. There also a hard core mode where it always turns on in max.
The hard plastic holster has a hole in the bottom, which I assume is to avoid melting it with the 4 x 4 x CREE XP-L2V6 leds, but I have occasionally just turned it on in the holster for general lighting if I needed both hands.
Since it's quite easy to pull it out of the holster, I do have a slight worry that it will come out by itself if I'm clambering around somewhere - but it never has yet. The holster is intended for clipping on those massive duty belts - it would swing around a bit otherwise. I have a vague recollection it came with some clips to use on narrower belts but perhaps I've thrown them away.
The 21700 battery it needs is a weird Nitecore one with positive and negative contacts each end. I wasn't wild about that, but in practice I never carry spare batteries, so they can be weird or built in and it's no particular problem. If you really hate this idea, there is an optional caddy for 2 x cr123s - but less brightness and lower run times.
The RovyVon A5x is my EDC at the moment, and I love it enough that I bought another one when I killed it in the washing machine (it's IP66 - but only with the charging plug in - long story at the end).
Like a few of these little lights, it has ancillary LED's on the side. I chose the white+UV side LEDs. The other option is white + red which would probably be more useful, except this is the glow-in-the-dark case, and the UV supercharges that in a couple of seconds.
The GITD is not amazing, but if you're camping away from city lights, it's still bright enough to find the next morning right up till the sun comes up.
The choices for the main LED are CREE XP-G3 or Nichia 219C. I went with the Nichia with a warmer CRI. The Nichia is 450 lumens vs the Cree 650.
The battery is rated 330mAh and is USB-C chargeable (I think my old one was mini USB?). The story with the charging plug on my old one was I washed it in the pocket of some pants, and it still worked, but I could see a drop of moisture inside. I pulled the charging port stopper right out since it kept half closing itself in the rice. Then I couldn't get it back in (probably could have with tweezers) so I thought I'd do that later, then washed it again the following weekend without the plug in. I went all out with the drying attempts, but it was properly soaked through, and never came back from that.
It doesn't really tailstand unless you've got the magnet on (I do) and something to stick it to. It's just a lovely little general use torch for your pocket.
+1 for the Seiko 5s. Love me a SNZG07J1