scsi

joined 5 months ago
[–] [email protected] 11 points 5 hours ago (2 children)

I have been using Linux on laptops as main/only compute since around 1997 (started with an Inspiron 4000, PII-400 IIRC), Dell is generally extremely boring and very Linux/BSD compatible. I have been buying gently used Precision models (typically using local marketplace, Craigslist in USA) as they tend to have better build quality and non-janky custom parts (think "winmodem"). They last forever, pretty much every Linux/BSD distro works. The most important thing is to stay away from Broadcom chips and look for Intel eth/wifi. Stay away from Inspiron to avoid hardware problems, in modern times those are the bottom of the barrel janky hardware.

The Dell Latitude line used by businesses are even more boring than Precisions and really always have been - their BIOS has a somewhat unique charging profile "always plugged in" to extend battery life - I use two ancient E6330 models tuned to super low power modes as mini-servers (think anything you'd use a raspberry Pi for) that have been chugging away for probably 5+ years just running cron jobs, backups, Syncthing services and whatever I toss on them. Throw an SSD in anything and it just works - power goes out, batteries act as UPS. $100 USD each, "just work".

Thinkpads have always been a Linux favorite, at least the old models when IBM owned the brand but not too sure about the Lenovo modern ones. Last Thinkpad I owned was a 32bit one back in like maybe 2010 and it worked just fine. They tend to be more expensive used than Dells (retain their purchase price better, like a nice used auto).

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I have successfully sent back a PS5 controller (the original from the box) within the 1-yr warranty; they sent me a brand new controller. You comment "every quarter", those controllers should be under warranty. Here is the US based link to get started: https://repairs.playstation.com/s/request-repair?id=2&locale=en-us&language=en_US

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

At the quantity the OP might use, buying by the gallon might make more sense - having a look to Amazon, the popular concentrations in gallon+ sizes are 70% and 99.9% (about the same price, $25 USD/gal) - it probably makes more logistical sense to go with 70% here to reduce evaporation and increase usable liquid on these tall, thin objects (so let's say "sloppy use" of oddly shaped hard to handle glass).

I'll leave my update at 70% concentration as the more economical choice - I'd presume based on their comment a soak in ZAP ($18 USD/gal) first is needed, then followed by the iso method... so it's a little expensive no matter what for something they might not care about that much.

[–] [email protected] 30 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (6 children)

There are ways to clean glass passively, it sounds like your residue is organic.

  • acetone, the pure kind you buy in a tin can at the hardware store. it will require some form of sealed container to put the glass in (acetone evaporates quickly and eats almost all organic matter) - finding a container big enough for your glass might be the hard part of this but it works (soak for days, and do not touch acetone with hands or use organic gloves - internet search for proper gloves)
  • ZAP heavy duty citrus cleaner, comes in a gallon jug. soak the glass in it for days or longer, doesn't need a sealed container. This is the same stuff you can use to clean your sink drain and is pretty safe to handle but still, wear basic gloves just in case.
  • high-purity (like say 70%) iso alcohol with table salt as an abrasive (standard grocery store things). This is more of for the inside, where you can put in alcohol + salt and seal with your hand and vigorously shake to let the salt scrub the residue and the alcohol to eat it. Uses a lot of alcohol due to it's evaporation, so buy a bigger jug.
  • specialty products found on 420-friendly websites or your local 420-friendly store; weed residue is a thing for bongs, bubblers, pipes and any other sort of smoking apparatus and they need cleaned and are hard to get inside; products are made to soak the glassware in to try and get the junk out. generally expensive and hit or miss on quality but they exist

Hope this helps. (edit: acetate -> acetone, oops) (edit2: 90% -> 70% alcohol per comment)

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 weeks ago

This is unfortunately a choice the Nautilus (GNOME) folks have taken; in other file managers (Thunar for XFCE, Caja for MATE, etc.) the ability to use custom actions are a first class citizen. Within Nautilus, the nautilus-actions project was superseded by the filemanager-actions project which was then archived: https://gitlab.gnome.org/Archive/filemanager-actions - a custom GNOME action might be something like gio open /path/to/terminal.desktop %d (where %d is the directory from Nautilus)

There are 3rd party attempts to recreate what was stripped out of/abandoned in Nautilus such as this one: https://github.com/bassmanitram/actions-for-nautilus

[–] [email protected] 8 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

Went down the rabbit hole for you while drinking some tea listening to the rain - it looks like in the future there is a new app/proposal for FreeDesktop to use xdg-terminal-exec as the new/default way and it's hard coded into the GNOME "gio" code over here (ctrl+f search xdg-terminal-exec): https://gitlab.gnome.org/GNOME/glib/-/blob/main/gio/gdesktopappinfo.c

That said, it looks like the nautilus-open-terminal Nautilus extension is shipped as part of gnome-terminal so it's hard coded to run that terminal not using the above code. Instead, you'd need to leverage a different extension called nautilus-open-any-terminal for now until the landscape changes: https://github.com/Stunkymonkey/nautilus-open-any-terminal

(disclaimer: not using GNOME/Nautilus or Fedora, theorycraft from me)

[–] [email protected] 46 points 4 weeks ago

It's a 4x4 MIMO, most likely LTE+5G; a service like T-Mobile Home Internet uses a hybrid design combining the two (B66 + n41 e.g.)

[–] [email protected] 9 points 1 month ago

The one that's stuck with me throughout a lifetime is The Hare and the Tortoise (Project Gutenberg, safe click). Slow but steady wins the race.

[–] [email protected] 9 points 1 month ago

In addition to the other comments which more directly address your question, DNS has been / can be used to exfiltrate data from "secure" networks. Search "dns data exfiltration" in your favourite search engine and you'll get several high quality articles. Typical mitigations might be to limit which DNS servers your network can contact, restrict packet sizes to the bare minimum which valid use would have and so forth.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 month ago

I'm familiar with the news about the brick - in the past I've had this problem (I think it was a bricked... pixel 2?) and faced similar power off issues. Keep trying what you're trying but in various ways - I vaguely recall that I had to press volume up first and then hold power or something like that (meaning pressing them both at once or power first didn't work). One of the various combos you're trying is supposed to be the one that forces it off after ~30secs of holding but a fuzzy memory reminds me it was real finicky to actually get working. Worst case scenario, just let the battery die. :(

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

To your multiple IMAP concept, I have been using isync / mbsync (name change, package isync in Debian) for years running via cron script to pull email from one domain at one provider and push it to a subfolder of another domain at another provider. You have to be aware of one specific gotcha but it's otherwise been working all by itself forever without issues. Take note of the PipeLineDepth 1 for IMAP service providers which throttle your speed, I have to use it on the destination side provider config.

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