rambos

After upgrading my internet connection I immediatelly noticed that my HDD tops 40 MB/s and bottlnecking download speed in qbittorrent. Is it possible to use SSD drive as a catch drive for 12 TB HDD so it uses SSD speeds when downloading and moves files to HDD later on? If yes, does it make sense? Anyone using anything simmilar? Would 512 GB be enough or could I benefit from 2TB SSD?

HDD is just for jellyfin (movies/shows), not in raid, dont need backup for that drive, I can afford risking data if that matters at all

All suggestions are welcome, Thx in advance

EDIT: I obviously have upset some of you, wasn't my intention, I'm sorry about that. I love to tinker and learn new things, but I could live with much lower speeds tho... Please don't hate me if I couldn't understand your comment or not being clear with my question.

HDD being bottleneck at 40 MB/s was wrong assumption (found out in meantime). I'm still trying to figure out what was the reason for download to be that slow, but I'm interested in learning about the main question anyway. I just thought I'm experiencing the same issue like many people today, having faster internet than storage. Some of you provided solutions I will look into, but need time for that and also have to fix whatever else I'm having issue with.

Keep this community awesome because it is <3

Hey guys, Ive been running PoP OS for more than a year without any big issues until today. I did a reboot (with checkmark to do updates) and after that PC got stuck at MBO logo. After reading a bit I rebooted again and was holding space button -> chose old kernel and PC started. One screen was just black while the other one was using super low resolution. I went to pop_shop and downgraded video drivers from 555 to 470 and eddited /boot/efi/loader/loader.conf to default Pop_OS-oldkern rebooted and viola its booting fine. Then I noticed my app PrusaSlicer (flatpak) doesnt show the Platter (main tab) and it crashes if I try to slice. I read it could be graphic driver related. Then I was struggling to update drivers to 555 again and eventually succeeded using sudo apt remove ~nnvidia and sudo apt install pop-desktop system76-driver-nvidia. I believe Im using old kernel and new gpu drivers, but still have an issue with PrusaSlicer. Anyone know a solution?

When I had only one screen working (at low resolution) PrusaSlicer was working fine...reinstall doesnt help at all

Thx in advance

Hey guys,

I made an automation that powers off my bluetooth speaker (using IR blaster) when ChromeCast is powered off for more than 10 s. Automation is working fine, but sometimes ChromeCast changes state from OFF to Unavailable and back to OFF in just a few seconds. I have no idea why is that happening, but it triggers automation and turns ON the speaker (it is the same IR button for ON and OFF) and gets it out of sync.

What condition or trigger should I use to make it work only when ChromeCast state changes from ON to OFF and ignores Unavailable to OFF?

There is my automation:

alias: Turn off JBL
description: if CC is off for 10 sec
trigger:
  - platform: device
    type: turned_off
    device_id: bc1049ea43a53092952d364749c3fb4c
    entity_id: ae0ea35649746ed5cea16f8d6ca54dd3
    domain: remote
    for:
      hours: 0
      minutes: 0
      seconds: 10
condition: []
action:
  - service: remote.send_command
    metadata: {}
    data:
      num_repeats: 1
      delay_secs: 0.4
      hold_secs: 0
      device: jbl
      command: "off"
    target:
      device_id: 4f1f3a13324e03646ff6b03aed27f2fe
mode: single

thanks in advance

Hey guys. Im running Home Assistant in docker container for few years and I'm super happy with it. The only way I access my server when not home is wireguard VPN. I noticed that I'm still receiving notifications even when not connected to VPN. I wonder how is that possible?

I don't have sub for HA Cloud or Nabu Casa. I also don't own a domain, using duckdns for wireguard connection and reverse proxy (npm). I thought I have 100% local setup, but I guess there is a Google or HA server in between. I don't want to disable the feature, I just want to know where is my data being sent

Thx

Hey guys. Is there any Android TV app that can trigger auto turn off after set amount of time of not using CC remote control?

We have a projector connected to ChromeCast with Google TV 4k and also a bluetooth speaker connected to CC. Sometimes we fall asleep while watching a movie/show at night and it is just wasting projector lamp hours. What I want is actually a basic TV feature that pops a message on the screen "shutting down in xxx seconds" and gets canceled with any button on CC remote control.

Projector actually has that feature, but then I have to use projectors remote control (trying to get rid of it with smart IR blaster and Home Assistant) to cancel the shutdown and even if it goes off CC is still playing sound from BT speaker. Projector has HDMI CEC settings, but it is not working at all unfortunately.

CC has a feature "Automatically turn off when inactive", but it never gets to inactive state because Jellyfin will just play a next episode (can be disabled, but would like to keep it) or TiVi mate is just playing until closed manually.

All opinions are welcome, thanks

Hey 3D printing fellas,

Are you worried about failures that can lead to disaster like printer catching on fire and burning down firniture and house? Do you use any kind of protection against fire?

I know metal enclosures are the best, but my printer is in the Ikea Lack enclosure. I checked connections and everything looks great, but I soldered cable on the heated bed anyway. Im not super worried tbh, but Im thinking about buying Stovetop Firestop and mounting it inside the enclosure just in case. This one is triggered with open flame only, so probably false activation is not possible. I would probably buy 2 more for kitchen.

There are also balls and other extinguisher shapes, but the one from the picture seems more recommended. Bad thing is I cant find that one availabls in europe. There are also smoke detectors, but they can only alarm you or cut the power.

What do you use? Can you recommend any good automatic extinguisher available in europe?

Every time I wake up PC from sleep I have to go to bluetooth settings -> select device -> enable connection to get sound on bluetooth speakers (Anker Soundcore). Bluetooth came with MBO and drivers were working out of the box after PopOS install.

I hope there is a command I can use instead of clicking in the GUI. Anyone know a command I could use?

[SOLUTION]

Using this command (with bluetooth speaker MAC address):

bluetoothctl connect A4:77:58:0A:DF:F1

[SOLUTION]

Bonus question: I was thinking I could map that command to a keyboard shortcut (like CTRL+ALT+B). What is the best way (or app) to accomplish this? I believe I could google this part quickly, but happy to hear suggestions anyway

[SOLUTION]

It's possible with PopOS: Settings -> Keyboard -> Keaboard Shortcuts -> Custom Shortcuts

[SOLUTION]

<3

This is a custom wall mount for my 2nd screen Dell P2417H (simmilar models with same stand will fit as well). It's a 24" monitor with pivot stand (can adjust up/down, portrait/landscape and tilt), but it doesnt suppport vesa mount (edit: this is wrong, it does support vesa, but then cant use pivot mechanism). I wanted it on the wall so I printed 3 parts out out of PLA. One part is screwed in the wall and the other one is securing monitor in place using zip ties. 3rd part is a small shelf that is mounted underneath (with original screw for monitor base), but its there mostly to provide a flat surface between monitor and a wall.

I've been using it (2 actually) for few years in old place and I love it. It can be a bit tricky to tighten zip ties, but its only done once anyway.

I'll upload files if someone needs them

First time I printed something made in FreeCAD. It's a table lamp for our balcony, more like a mood light than a real lamp hehe. Its made from 3 parts (base, tube and a hat). Base and tube are CA glued and I used some insulating tape to fit a hat tightly. The lamp is about 240 mm tall and its powered from 9V battery. Battery case and steel weight are glued with some blue tack (white tack lol) to hold it in the place. There are 2 LEDs and resistor soldered together in series. I might replace the leds with lower powered ones if battery goes out too fast, but time will tell. Im also thinking about different hats, but first iteration was quick and dirty, I love it!

More pics:

First time I printed something made in FreeCAD. It's a table lamp for our balcony, more like a mood light than a real lamp hehe. Its made from 3 parts (base, tube and a hat). Base and tube are CA glued and I used some insulating tape to fit a hat tightly. The lamp is about 240 mm tall and its powered from 9V battery. Battery case and steel weight are glued with some blue tack (white tack lol) to hold it in the place. There are 2 LEDs and resistor soldered together in series. I might replace the leds with lower powered ones if battery goes out too fast, but time will tell. Im also thinking about different hats, but first iteration was quick and dirty, I love it!

More pics:

Hey guys, I was happily running 44 docker containers for a while on Debian host. Today I tried to add a new service (uptime-kuma) using portainer stacks, but I got this error:

Error response from daemon: could not find an available, non-overlapping IPv4 address pool among the defaults to assign to the network

Quick google led me to this link where I found possible problem with max number of docker networks. I did docker network prune, it removed 5 networks that were not in use and viola, uptime-kuma is working now!

Am I reaching the limit? What to do if I need 10 more services on the same host? I bet I saw some people in this community running many more services

This is a followup of my last post where I was looking for a solution to our problem with smell coming from the kitchen hood (extractor) when neighobour is cooking. I got many good suggestions, but @Finlsolo963 pointed me to Shut-off Damper with motor that looks like perfect fit. I hope it can stop the smell completely in closed position and open automatically when we start using hood.

I was looking at this Damper

I could use Shelly Plus Plug S to detect power usage of the hood which trigers Shelly 2.5 to open Damper. After turning off the hood, power will go down and automation would triger another channel of Shelly 2.5 to close the Damper.

What do you think about the setup? Is there any better hardware you would suggest? I dont mind spending more for beter sealing when Damper is closed. I like the one from the link mostly because its 220V and I could use shelly relays which seems super simple to implement. I already own Shelly Plug S that I could use, but its not a must. Im also opet to zigbee devices.

Bonus question: what would happen if something goes wrong and both channels of Shelly 2.5 triger at the same time? It would be like pressing Open and Close buttons at the same time.

Thanks in advance