this post was submitted on 09 Jan 2025
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[–] [email protected] 24 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I wish I had pockets big enough to replace the flimsy Bosch drawers in my fridge that start to shatter as soon as you pull just a tiny bit harder than normal.

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[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

I'd say more like 30 cents, but this one's clearly stolen - a real 3d printer owner would have had the right color filament on hand.

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[–] [email protected] 9 points 1 day ago (8 children)

I just grab the serial number from a recently sold one and file a warranty claim on it.

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[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 day ago

Now THAT is a life hack.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 day ago

lol when i was an asshole kid i did that with guitar volume knobs

[–] [email protected] 11 points 1 day ago (5 children)

Wouldn't that be susceptible to melting due to oven temps? Or is that probably made from a higher temp filament?

[–] [email protected] 10 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Not really. You can print it out of ABS easily enough if that's a concern, given that there is a good chance that is what the knob on any given residential range or oven is likely to have been made out of by the factory anyway.

As a matter of fact, since this is directly in my wheelhouse (not that wheelhouse, the other one) vis-a-vis both 3D printing and whitegoods, let's take a look.

Being in the unique position to be able to do so, I grabbed a knob off of a random smattering of ranges. Here's what I found from the ones that didn't require taking them apart further to find the markings or scraping at them with a knife or something (hey, there's the other wheelhouse):

  • Maytag (Whirlpool): Stamped "ABS" on the inside.
  • Bosch "Industrial Style" (similar to OP's): PBT
  • Whirlpool: PET
  • Verona: ABS
  • GE Base Line: ABS

PBT has a pretty similar melting point to ABS at ~235° C. With ABS it's complicated, but I print ABS at 260° C for what it's worth. PET is also typically given around 260-270. So these are all pretty similar to each other.

TL;DR: You should be fine with ABS.

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[–] [email protected] 8 points 1 day ago

Glass transition temp of PLA is around 55-60C - that’s when it starts to get malleable. I’d be pretty surprised if the oven knobs get that hot.

[–] [email protected] 29 points 1 day ago (2 children)

What's the melting point of the regular filament? You're supposed to touch the oven knobs it so it's probably not much higher than 50 degrees.

[–] [email protected] 20 points 1 day ago (2 children)

50 degrees? How do your oven knobs even get that hot? Mine don't change temperature at all, always room temperature. If your oven knobs get recognizably warmer (yet to spend of 50°) something seems to be awfully wrong with your oven!

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[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 day ago

Depends on the type of filament used and temperatures that are actually present at the knob. I would say no since the temperature required to melt (or warp) the knob would have to be high enough to cause some pretty severe burns if you touched it with your hand. if the knobs on the oven/range are getting that hot, there is a lot more to worry about here than the knob melting.

[–] [email protected] 20 points 1 day ago

Hopefully if it's a decent oven there isn't that much heat on the outside. I guess if you just left the door open, it might eventually melt

[–] [email protected] 74 points 1 day ago (6 children)

Still cheaper than getting a 3D printer and filament and stuff. And CAD/CAM software.

[–] [email protected] 19 points 1 day ago (2 children)

Software is free if you aren't using it for commercial use. Fusion 360, onshape, etc. are all free for personal use. And that's assuming someone didn't make it already and share it free.

Filament costs $17 for 1kg of perfectly fine plastic. You'd probably use 100g at most for this, so $1.70.

A Bambu A1 mini is $200, and is a modern, high quality printer that would be fine for this project.

So you only need like a half dozen of these projects to come out ahead.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

To be clear, I'm the last one to say one shouldn't invest in money saving innovation. But the breaking even should be number one priority. I, for instance have all kinds of energy savers in my house that have cost me several hundreds. They'll only be returned in a few years and I need to manage them properly.

[–] [email protected] 28 points 1 day ago (1 children)

On software SIDE, kinda criminal not to mention FreeCAD, it's FOSS and runs on Linux, unlike the non-free freemium and paid alternatives

[–] [email protected] 17 points 1 day ago (2 children)

But it's got a long way to go before it's at usable as the others. Definitely not a good place to start learning cad.

[–] [email protected] 12 points 1 day ago (4 children)

No, it doesn't.

The recent 1.0 release is actually very good. It is probably better at this point than some of the entry level commercial options and most importantly compared to those is not intentionally hobbled in any way.

The time for everyone to stop parroting how "everyone knows" that FreeCAD is unusable is... now. You can go ahead and delete that one; it's time to learn a new soundbyte.

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[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

Nah it's a great place to start learning, it's super easy to start modelling your first simple models in part design.

It's the more complex designs where it starts to struggle (or maybe I'm just bad idk)

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[–] [email protected] 68 points 1 day ago (1 children)

It's true that you should not expect to save money in the short or long run with 3d printing as a hobby, but if it's your thing then it's nice to have a hobby that's occasionally useful. Also, autodesk fusion is free for consumer use.

[–] [email protected] 25 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I wouldn't say I've made back my investment on 3D printing in the past half a decade I've done it. But in terms of "prints for friends" like this one above I may be close. Plus there's just something nice about going "I need a measuring cup for dog food" and printing one to the exact serving size.

[–] [email protected] 11 points 1 day ago (1 children)

What food-safe printing materials do you use?

[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I just use PLA. PLA itself is good safe, but occasionally the additives aren't, so I don't use any for human related stuff. It's also worth considering that the layered approach can allow for bacterial growth, so unless you treat it (e.g. epoxy seal it), you'll need to wash it fairly frequently to curb buildup.

[–] [email protected] 15 points 1 day ago (1 children)

That frequent washing is what leaks out the nasty chemicals from the plastic fyi. Heat and mechanical stress are the main way plastics leach

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[–] [email protected] 15 points 1 day ago (1 children)

One doesn't buy a 3D printer to make a knob. One is suddenly presented with a need for a knob (or a thingy, or a flangle, or a twizzlet...) and suddenly remembers, "hey - I have a 3D printer." Followed by "I wonder if there are any matching designs in one of the several massive free databases of models."

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[–] [email protected] 213 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (4 children)

When an artificer and a rouge are faced with the same problem.

Edit: my english sucks

[–] [email protected] 72 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

DM: Roll a D20 for a stealth check.
Rouge: I bat my eyelashes.
DM: Huh, I misread your character sheet. I'll allow it.

[–] [email protected] 88 points 1 day ago (1 children)

What does makeup have to do with this?

[–] [email protected] 19 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Rogue is not spelled rouge.

[–] [email protected] 51 points 1 day ago

I think you replied to the wrong person. They know.

[–] [email protected] 23 points 1 day ago
[–] [email protected] 26 points 1 day ago

I feel like an artificer would be skilled in the application of rouge. As well as foundation and eyeliner.

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