fashion

Found some more pics on this site: https://hackerscurator.com/pages/costumes/burn.html

Hillary Clinton vs Donald Trump: The messages behind the fashion

29 July 2016

Sweater

Etymology

The Oxford English Dictionary gives "sweater" as appearing in 1882 and gives its definition as "A woolen vest or jersey worn in rowing or other athletic exercises, originally... to reduce one's weight; now commonly put on also before or after exercise to prevent taking cold. Hence a similar garment for general informal wear; a jumper or pullover".

[...]

According to British dictionaries, "sweater" is used in British English in the same sense as in American English but "jumper" is commonly used instead (though some say that "sweater" is used for heavier ones worn for warmth). The Oxford English Dictionary states that in British usage, sweaters are always pulled over the head and jumpers are not necessarily, whereas most or all other British dictionaries disagree and say that sweaters are not necessarily pullovers or even say that jumpers are always pullovers, i.e. never open in front.

According to most British dictionaries, British usage agrees with what American dictionaries describe as American English usage, according to which a sweater is either a pullover or a cardigan (which opens at the front). Almost all British dictionaries include cardigans as a type of sweater but at least one includes cardigans as a type of jumper (i.e. most British dictionaries consider "sweater" – and at least one considers "jumper" – to be a hypernym for both pullovers and cardigans).

Colloquial and informal usage common in Britain is using the term “cardie” for a cardigan which usually refers to a button-front sweater.

I'm being told in my earpiece that fuzzycrumpet is not actually a word.

cross-posted from: https://hexbear.net/post/4385058

https://archive.ph/7uIzF

Welcome back to Sery's dressposting~ We are taking a look at Hoshibako Works' collaboration with Zun to produce Touhou Project lolita dresses, specifically the Alice and Marisa ones since they're my favourite characters. As I do so, I'll go over how lolita coording should try to capture the essence of a character without simply cosplaying them. This is also a special issue where I am coping with the fact that I cannot afford these dresses despite really really wanting them. I'm sorry for the mess you are about to read.

Before we begin, some context for what the hell a Touhou is and why I care. Touhou Project is a Japanese bullet hell video game series developed by Zun that has a pretty huge cast of basically entirely female characters and some pretty incredible music. While I can't go over this series in much detail here, I'll be giving little explanations of these two characters before I delve into their dresses so as to contextualise them and I will be drawing from official art to compare to.

I really like these games. I suck at them, but I find them very fun. Plus I have a pretty strong attachment to the cast and a not-insignificant amount of the music I listen to on a daily basis is doujin-band covers of their OSTs.

So, beginning with Alice Margatroid. She is the Seven-Coloured Puppeteer, a magician who controls dolls as her primary gimmick power to fight other people and do daily chores with. You can even see a replica doll in the background of the photos of her dress! (Though unfortunately I don't think it's available for purchase or else I would get one as a cope) As a character she's generally a bit of a loner and a bit blunt towards people, but generally still caring. Essentially a cold exterior, but she warms up and opens up to some people, becoming more vulnerable and showing that she's got a little bit of a cowardly streak.

Design-wise she has been pretty set-in-stone when it comes to the official look: She has a simple blue dress over a white short sleeved blouse, with a white capelet on top. Then as accessories she wears pink: a ribbon around her waist, a scarf tied into a bow, and either a lace hairband or bow in her hair. And all of these details barring the shirt have some amount of spiky lace. Occasionally in some other official media like manga she swaps the short sleeves out for long ones and a few other minor alterations, but generally this is how Alice looks.

It's a design which, frankly, is basically almost a lolita coord as it is. All that it is missing is a petticoat to get the right shape language. (notice how it doesn't poof out that much on the skirt, instead it mostly follows her shape. Although some artwork of her does give it sufficient poof.) Yet Hoshibako Works didn't simply replicate the actual design for this collaboration, instead they made some pretty key changes.

The biggest and most notable being the capelet. Rather than have it be just plain white cloth with a lace trim like the character art, they made the entire thing lace and gave it a very lovely rose motif. Why would they do this? It's because a good lolita coord isn't meant to be 1 to 1 accurate to the source material. The goal is to capture the feeling of a character without actually copying them. And ultimately as a design, Alice's capelet is the most striking part which your eyes will be drawn to. But when translated to the real world, if it were accurate to the game it would become a lot less striking compared to the rest of the outfit. This is for a few reasons. The first is that the pure white of the capelet, regardless the black outline, would blend into the white and, in this design, long sleeves. This would leave that looking like a block, and while that can certainly work for a look, it would also draw attention away from the capelet itself which would be a mistake when trying to represent Alice. The second is to do with detail. Many of the smaller areas of lace such as around the waist would draw a lot of attention due to being the most visually interesting spots. By making the capelet fully lace, we solve both issues by making it both not solid white and also the area of the highest detail by far on the whole dress. It becomes the focal point, and captures the most important parts of Alice's design super well.

Similarly, an Alice by accuracy would have to contend with the way her design switches between scarfs and bows depending on the exact artwork. Here they decided to go with the bow, and it makes sense. It allows them to make a much more elaborate look (just look at how many loops it has) and, more importantly, it's a much more distinctly lolita appearance, allowing the overall outfit to stay in that realm of lolita design.

Of course, this is also an outfit, so the capelet is removable. And by god it is such a beautiful and simple dress underneath. I love the way that it's laced up so much. I'm not too keen on the fact that it seems to be an OP when Alice's dress is clearly a JSK and blouse combo, but I also don't mind because this is such a pretty one that it works anyways.

The last thing of note is then the bow tied at the waist and it's just, so, so pretty. I don't have anything to say, I just love it.

Moving on now to Marisa. She is an ordinary magician whose main gimmick is using love-coloured star magic. Big gremlin energy, I love her so much. Her entire thing is being a little menace who goes around solving issues, stealing books and just hanging out. She's also my main character in these games and has been on the banner of my account ever since I made it.

(As a small tangent, she and Alice are tied for my favourite character, I can't really pick one. Marisa is the one I get more joy from and I try to replicate her aesthetically (side braids go brrrr) but Alice is more me-coded in terms of both aesthetic and personality, or at least I feel she is.)

In terms of design, Marisa actually differs a lot from game to game. Unlike Alice, she is one of the main playable characters and so she will get new art every game. Her basic outfit is very set, it's a black witch outfit made with a black skirt and vest, with a white blouse and white apron.

The accessories are where it mainly differs, as she will usually have a bow on her hat and braid, but the exact colour of the bow changes in every single game and she will occasionally add extra accessories like scarfs, capelets, or pendants depending on the game. Plus her actual outfit will occasionally change slightly with things like embroidery being added.

Much like Alice, the dress based on her differs quite a bit from any of these depictions. Among the official ones I looked at the closest I could find is this one above, which comes from the artbook Who's Who of Humans & Youkai - Dusk Edition. This is mainly because it's the only design that includes this particular victorian style of collar which the dress itself replicated. Of course on the other hand the vest here is absolutely not the same as the dress's, but still.

(Tangent, while I was looking for official Marisa designs I discovered this one which Zun illustrated for the old official site and honestly I love this, I kinda want to make a coord based on this specifically. The capelet especially looks so pretty and I want something similar. Although the skirt is kind of a mess on this illustration, oh well, I get the idea and it's cool to me.)

So, now to look at the dress itself! Like Alice, it matches the basic design but differs a lot on details. A particular choice which I find very important for this dress is that they decided on plaid black and white for the accent colour used by the bows. This is really interesting since it's not one which has been used by an official Marisa design before and I think it's actually really pretty. It makes it striking and unique for her character while still entirely fitting in the realm of things she'd wear, and it helps to avoid the problem of picking a specific game's design only to have weirdos (me) critique it for not being their favourite. (Phantasmagoria of Flower View's purple btw, it's the one I included a photo of earlier.)

Construction-wise I'm... kind of confused more than anything else. I think it's an OP? But if so that's a huge shame because I'd have much preferred it being separate pieces for the blouse and skirt. At least the apron is removeable, since it's just tied at the back. But idk, I could have absolutely seen myself (in the world where I could afford it) using the skirt or blouse separately for coords but as is they're stuck being just for this one look which will always feel very Marisa-ish to me. It's just a small shame.

Similarly, with the apron, I'm not really convinced by the pockets. It's something which certainly fits her character, she'd love to have easy places to hide small trinkets she steals or ingredients she's collecting, but I'm not sure it's really doing it for me aesthetically. I have warmed up to it a lot since I first saw the dress though, so maybe I'll come around to it eventually.

Going back to the full outfit, the details are incredible. The collar has some lovely little embroidered stars on it,

and those motifs are continued down with the buttons.

This use of the stars as a detail continues down even into the lace and it's so adorable.

It's a really lovely way to, once again, bring in the feel of Marisa without being 1 to 1 accurate. She's a star-based magician, so giving her star themed detailing is the best move and brings in a lot more of her character than you'd be able to if you just replicated her in-game outfits.

Looking for some kind of pixie cut that won't make me look like a soccer mom who wants to speak to your manager

There's a bunch of Yohji Yamamoto ties with classic manga characters on Grailed, but they're asking for $500 ea lmao. If I had the money to waste (and an in-office job) I would love to have a weaboomer ass tie.

Anyone else have things that they'd love/find super novel but can't justify the cost of?

The actual name is 1906L. Catchy, right?

Spectator shoe - Wikipedia

The spectator shoe, also known as co-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled, oxford, semi-brogue or full brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe. This style of shoe dates from the nineteenth century but reached the height of popularity during the 1920s and 1930s.

[...]

In the 1920s and 1930s in England, this style was considered too flamboyant for a gentleman, and therefore was called a tasteless style. Because the style was popular among lounge lizards and cads, who were sometimes associated with divorce cases, a nickname for the style was co-respondent shoe, a pun on the colour arrangement on the shoe, and because "co-respondent" is the legal description of a third party caught in flagrante delicto with the guilty party in a case of adultery.

The photo is from this thread - Vintage Spectator Shoes | Page 29 | The Fedora Lounge.

from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dorISm5TAYg

ok! here is one of my outfits! this one is a green wrap dress from Disturbia with black snake, plant and bug print, worn over a black mesh turtleneck, black leggings (not seen but visible through the split when walking) and paired with ankle boots from Gothicana and accessorized with vintage silver jewelry

cross-posted from: https://hexbear.net/post/4051055

This is to help a friend find things for gifts for vegans in their life and so on. Mentioned here https://hexbear.net/post/3987758

Shoes are a gigantic problem when it comes to no plastic vegan clothing, pretty much everything is made of plastic when it comes to shoes. Rubber soles can often be mixed with plastic, and same is true with the so called plant leathers, which are merely a marketing gimmick.

Upon diving deeply on leather replacements, I've found that almost all 'plant' leathers are only 35% of the plant it claims to be. It does in fact change the quality and feel of the material, however, its still mostly fucking plastic. All of these companies doing these various leathers claim to be innovators saving the environment, but they all use the same fundamental process to mix plants into their plastic leather, hence the same percentage.

This includes:

• Apple leather

• Mushroom leather

• Cork leather

• Cactus leather

• Pineapple leather

This all points to the idea that this is just bazinga stuff currently and a fad liberals use to make themselves feel better. The only options that immediately spring to mind that aren't plastic are certain kinds of canvas, cotton, and (non vegan) leather shoes which seem to be the least plastic if ordered custom with wooden soles. Most canvas and cotton shoes all look the same and aren't particularly feminine and many use plastic tainted rubber soles, laminates, and glue, so the search continues.

Desserto, the company who makes cactus leather, seems to sport a lofty claim that their more pure and new samples of cactus leather are now 90% cactus, and 10% PU. This is a much more sensible ratio, but I cannot find information on anyone that actually sells this magical material.

Next up on the search: MIRUM rubber leather seems to be promising. It sports a claim that it is 100% untainted-by-plastic natural rubber (unlike many shoe soles and tires). Rubber farming is of course an environmentally intensive process for many reasons, but it technically is a carbon sink, technically is biodegradable, and if done properly, it could be good. I will be digging into this next. If it looks good, then there will be a struggle about finding a place that sells it in a US womens in size 12+. Rubber obviously has a very intense history of imperialism and in the present so... I'm very doubtful of the ethics of this. But I will dig.

cross-posted from: https://hexbear.net/post/3987758

Intersection of environmentalism and veganism incoming

Someone asked about this in a chat I'm in and it led to a lot of digging with almost no success beyond spending 300 dollars to buy custom clothes all the time. We're looking for stuff that is a) vegan and b) has no plastic byproducts that we can recommend to people of many sizes and c) will not bankrupt you. Like 6ft tall+ women with gigantic feet 12+ womens sized shoes.

Shoes, hats, et al. of feminine styling. Basic shit. Flats. Heels. Thrifting isn't usually an option for people of certain sizing, too.

edit:

Things I've found, again, the point of this is basic essentials shit that is vegan, no plastic, and will fit tall women. Gimmicky things that aren't basic aren't included.

Custom Clothes (expensive):

https://loyalfootwear.com/ - 350 USD for a flat. Ridiculous price, but it is fully custom and has non plastic options. There seems to be no way to ask her simple questions about the products she sells to verify their contents.

https://heartsandfound.com/ - Custom dresses and skirts. Uses various fabrics like linen or cotton of your choosing, unclear if shipping doesn't use plastic. Seems most dresses are in the 120-140 dollar range, which is reasonable. Has a lot of older 50s styles for dresses. Storefront sells from Vietnam, fabric quality seems very very good, seems to source materials from a cooperative and shuts down during Vietnamese holidays? Nice.

https://www.eshakti.com/ - Lots of options for clothes, uses various fabrics, can shop by fabric type, has custom sizing and is not much more expensive than a normal shop. Some of the clothing does look cheap and may use low quality plastic fibers in conjunction with the cotton. Ships from India.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/LeoLines - Transgender gaffs, can be made fully cotton.

Not custom clothes:

americantall.com - Cheap, but many of the materials contain plastics, look shit, and aren't vegan. Some options are low in plastics or are fully cotton, but there aren't many. Has male options too.

longtallsally.com - Lots of cheap garbage but there are some things that aren't plastic.

He also gave me a few crow feathers for my hat.

I am definitely gonna be the best dressed person at goth night this weekend with that leather duster from my halloween pic

My clothing styles range from punk (even though I barely listen to any punk music and most punks would probably consider a tankie to be authoritarian), 50s greaser/rockabilly (even though I hate cars), or homeless person.

Help me I look like shit.

Studio d'Artisan Rain Sashiko pants. I have been thinking about them all Fall but can't really figure out anything that would pair nicely except like a white t-shirt and a colored jacket.

I just can't get over how beautiful the fabric is. Maybe a shirt would be better?

https://xcancel.com/PUNISHEDBOULDE2/status/1854314644585783466

Gonna have to have this as a display item rather than wear it, I knew I should’ve gotten brown or green what was I thinking

If you put together an outfit from https://lapolicegear.com/tactical-clothing.html , for example, that's really practical, good mobility, easy to wash, hard-wearing BUT it looks boring.

So then you fix the tedium with things like patches....

...DIY bleaching or dying...

I'm not the first person to think of this, it's kind of a big part of punk. Just something I am thinking about.