This battery lasts the life of the router under the operating environmental conditions specified for the router, and is not field-replaceable.
But who determines its lifespan?
Knowing there is a battery set to fail and I can't simply replace it makes me physically uncomfortable. Enough so that I'd rather it not have RTC.
Thanks Cisco.
There doesn't need to be a separate access panel. It can just be in a normal battery holder like so:
Replaceable CR1225 in Cisco 1802
Considering it's something that generally runs 24/7 for years, it may still be a good idea to clean out dust from the device when possible. That's also an opportunity to replace the RTC battery, assuming it's replaceable.
Oh, hey, it seems Cisco even used to provide some Li batteries until 2017.
Also, not all businesses need the networks up 24/7. There may be plenty of time for down time for maintenance.
The eos on that 1802 was 2018. They stopped selling batteries for it a year before it stopped being supported. They claimed in that bulletin it was because of the shipping restrictions on batteries (which I believe!) too, so that might have had something to do with the series of decisions that led to soldered in batteries.
I didn’t even think of shipping restrictions making it prohibitively expensive to ship replacement batteries. That’s a good one.
Since you’re the op, how do you handle soldered in batteries? As you might expect from my replies, I just unsolder em (with a bench supply tacked in to keep power going to the circuit) and put in a replacement. Usually I don’t even put in battery holders, just another soldered in cell of the same type.
On another note, as is said here https://lemmy.world/comment/10316824 some devices clears the rom when the battery is removed, effectively making the battery's like, the device's life. THIS is true asshole design.
EDIT uhm, didn't see this was an old thread.
Sorry to disappoint you, but I did not have to deal with them yet.
My idea is something like this:
Or probably just as you said.
if you want to preserve the clock memory then use an ungrounded soldering iron. Usualy the cheaper ones are ungrounded and the midlevel ones are grounded. expensive or micro stations will sometimes have a ground lift switch. if you use a grounded one it'll run a chance of getting into a fight with your bench supply over weather 3v gets to be at the node youre soldering.
Good luck. if you find that the through holes are too small to get good heat transfer, don't be afraid to leave a 3/8" or so bit of the old leads sticking out and solder your replacement onto them. covered with heat shrink they'll be fine.
they make low acid or non corrosive or whatever hot glue to attach that little toilet lookin' doohickey for just these applications.